Designer Lighting

Light is the first material I specify in every room. The pieces here are chosen for how they look switched off at noon and how they glow at nine in the evening — solid metals, hand-blown and seeded glass, linen and silk shades, and finishes that age gracefully. How to size a chandelier. Add the length and width of the room in feet; the total, read in inches, is a sound starting diameter. Over a dining table, choose a fixture roughly one-half to two-thirds the table's width and hang the bottom 30 to 36 inches above the tabletop. In a foyer with a tall ceiling, allow about 2.5 to 3 inches of fixture height for every foot of ceiling height, and keep at least seven feet of clearance beneath it. Layering light in a finished room. A beautiful room uses three layers: ambient light from recessed or ceiling fixtures, task light at reading chairs, desks and counters, and accent light from sconces, picture lights and lamps. Lamps at different heights do more for atmosphere than any single overhead fixture. Put every layer on a dimmer and specify warm bulbs around 2700K for living spaces. Sconce placement. Mount bathroom vanity sconces at roughly eye level — about 60 to 66 inches from the floor — on either side of the mirror so the face is lit evenly. In hallways and living rooms, sconces usually sit 60 to 72 inches from the floor and 8 to 10 feet apart. Hardwired fixtures should be installed by a licensed electrician. Choosing a finish. Unlacquered brass develops a soft patina and suits traditional and transitional homes. Aged and antique brass give warmth without the brightness of polished finishes. Bronze and blackened steel ground a lighter room. I rarely match every fixture in a home; I coordinate them within a family of two or three finishes so the house feels collected rather than ordered from a single catalog.